Built for the Fish That Ignore Everything Small.
Big trout and bass get big by being careful. A lot of small flies just don’t get their attention. This articulated streamer is built to push more water and move like something genuinely fleeing, which is what it takes to get a reaction from a fish that’s old enough to know better.
Why the Joint Matters
The fly is built in two sections connected by a flexible braided link instead of a rigid hook shank. That connection lets the tail section move independently from the head. On the strip, the tail kicks out to the side. On the pause, it swings and settles at an angle, the kind of motion that reads as an injured or fleeing baitfish rather than a fly just sitting still in the water.

This two-hook, jointed approach is closely associated with Kelly Galloup, who helped popularize articulated streamers for big trout starting in the 1980s. The idea behind the design is simple: big fish often hit the front of a long fly and miss the back, so giving the fly a joint and a second hook gives you a better shot at solid hookups on those strikes.
Why Two Hooks
A common problem with long streamers is the short strike, where a fish grabs the tail but the hook is up at the head. This fly solves that with a front hook (1/0) that anchors the head and a rear hook that sits right where fish often attack the tail. Combined with the feathers and silicone legs that keep moving even when you stop stripping, the fly stays active-looking the entire time it’s in the water.
Color Options

Olive works well in overcast conditions or stained water, reading as a darker baitfish or sculpin. Rust orange leans toward a crayfish profile and is a solid choice during fall when fish are keyed on crayfish and spawning activity. Yellow is the high-visibility option for murky water or when you want the fly to stand out and provoke a territorial response.
How to Fish It
Strip-pause-strip is the standard retrieve. The pause matters most, that’s when the joint lets the tail swing and settle, which is usually when fish commit. Use a strip-set rather than lifting the rod, since a rod lift on a long fly often pulls the hook away from the fish instead of into it.
A 6-weight rod is the minimum for casting this comfortably. A 7 or 8-weight gives you more control on the strip and an easier time turning the fly over. A sink-tip line gets it down fastest, though a floating line with a long leader works fine in shallower water.
Common Questions
What connects the two hooks? A heavy-duty braided line, not wire. It flexes more than wire, which is what gives the tail its independent motion, and it holds up to repeated strikes and head shakes.
What rod weight do I need? 6wt minimum. 7 or 8wt makes casting and stripping easier, especially for pike or bigger bass water.
Do I need a sinking line? Not required, but a sink-tip gets the fly into the strike zone faster. A floating line with a 9 to 12 foot leader works in shallow rivers and lakes.
How should I set the hook? Strip-set. Pull the line with your line hand instead of lifting the rod, which keeps tension on the fly and improves your hookup rate.
Specs
| Spec | Front Hook | Rear Hook |
|---|---|---|
| Size | 1/0 | #1 |
| Hook Length | 34mm | 31mm |
| Hook Gape | 11mm | 10mm |
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Total Length | ~11cm (4.33in) |
| Weight | ~2.4g |
| Connection | Heavy-duty braided line |
| Eyes | Weighted dumbbell |
| Materials | Natural feathers, Flashabou, barred silicone rubber legs |
| Colors Available | Olive, Rust Orange, Yellow |
| Target Species | Brown/Rainbow Trout, Smallmouth/Largemouth Bass, Northern Pike |




Good fly, swims well. I’d say the hook is maybe a touch light for really big fish but for average sized trout and bass it’s totally fine.