A Fly That’s Barely Changed Since the 1950s, Because It Doesn’t Need To.
Frank Sawyer, a riverkeeper on England’s River Avon, tied the original Pheasant Tail Nymph with nothing but copper wire and a few pheasant tail fibers. No bead, no flash, no thread even. He published the pattern in 1958 and it’s been a staple ever since, because the slim, translucent profile matches the general shape of mayfly nymphs better than almost anything more complicated. This version adds a brass bead head, a later addition that gives you a bit of weight while keeping the same simple silhouette that made the original work.
Why Brass, Not Tungsten
Brass is lighter than tungsten. That’s the whole reason to choose it. In fast pocket water where you need to get deep immediately, tungsten is the better tool. But in flat glides, spring creeks, and tailwaters where trout have time to look the fly over, a slower, more natural drop often outfishes a fly that sinks like a rock. This brass version gives you that gentler descent. Pair it with split shot on your tippet if you need more depth without changing the fly’s behavior.
Built to Hold Together
Pheasant tail fibers are thin and can fray after a fish or two if they’re not secured well. The copper wire is wrapped in the opposite direction of the fibers, locking them down at regular intervals. That construction is what lets this fly survive repeated strikes and rocky bottoms instead of falling apart after the first fish.
How and When to Fish It
This pattern works year-round, but it’s especially good during spring Baetis activity (March through May) and fall Blue-Winged Olive hatches (September through November). Size #18 covers the smallest midge and Baetis activity. Size #14 handles bigger mayflies and can pass for a small stonefly in faster water.
Euro nymphing: Run a #16 or #18 as the point fly 16 to 18 inches below a heavier anchor fly. Tight-line it through seams at the speed of the current.
Dry-dropper: Hang a #16 or #18 on 18 to 24 inches of 5X or 6X tippet below a buoyant dry fly like a Parachute Adams or Elk Hair Caddis.
Indicator nymphing: Use a #14 in deeper or faster water. Set your indicator at roughly 1.5 times the water depth and dead drift through seams and foam lines.
Common Questions
Does it need floatant? No. This is a subsurface fly. If you need more depth, add a small split shot 8 to 10 inches above the fly on your tippet rather than adding weight to the fly itself.
Brass or tungsten, which should I use? Brass for water under about 3 feet, slow currents, spring creeks, and flat glides. Tungsten for deeper runs and fast pocket water where you need to get down quickly. Most anglers end up carrying both.
What tippet should I pair with each size? #14 with 4X, #16 with 5X, #18 with 6X. Drop one size finer in clear, low water where fish are spookier.
How long does the fly hold up? The copper wire rib keeps the body intact through repeated use. Check it after a few fish and retire it once the wire starts separating from the body.
Specs
| Size | Shank | Gape |
|---|---|---|
| #14 | 13.7mm | 4.8mm |
| #16 | 11.7mm | 4.3mm |
| #18 | 9.9mm | 3.4mm |
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Hook | Turned-down eye, standard nymph bend, barbed |
| Bead | Machined brass, black oxidized finish |
| Tail | Natural ringneck pheasant tail fibers |
| Body | Natural ringneck pheasant tail fibers, forward-wrapped |
| Rib | Fine copper wire, counter-wrapped |
| Recommended Tippet | 4X (#14) / 5X (#16) / 6X (#18) Nylon |
| Target Species | Brown, Rainbow, Cutthroat, Brook Trout, Grayling, Panfish |












Man, this fly just works. I don’t care what river you’re on, throw a PT nymph and something’s gonna eat it. The brass bead on these sinks fast enough without being overkill, and the pheasant tail fibers actually look alive in the current. Been using PT nymphs for 15 years and these are tied as well as anything I’ve seen.