A Traditional Pattern for Fishing Just Below the Surface.
Sakasa Kebari are built for the water column trout often feed in but anglers often miss, just under the surface where insects are emerging or drowning. This wire-bodied version keeps the traditional Japanese reverse-hackle design and adds a wire body for extra flash and a bit of reinforcement to the hook shank.
What “Reverse Hackle” Means
Sakasa means “reverse” in Japanese. Unlike most Western wet flies, where the hackle sweeps back toward the bend, a Sakasa Kebari’s hackle points forward toward the hook eye. As the fly sinks or drifts, that hackle creates resistance in the water, giving it a pulsing, breathing motion rather than sinking straight down like a dead weight.

The wire-wrapped body adds some flash and gives the fly a bit more durability around the hook shank. The peacock herl thorax adds a segmented look near the head.
Three Wire Colors
| Wire Color | Often Used | General Match |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow/Gold | Spring and fall | Caddis pupa, emerging mayfly, stonefly nymph |
| Red | Fall through winter | Egg patterns, bloodworms, midge larvae |
| Green | Summer | Midge pupa, caddis larvae, damselfly nymph |
Every pack includes all three colors, so you can switch through them on the water rather than guessing ahead of time.
How to Rig and Fish It

Traditional tenkara uses a furled or level line matched to your rod length, with 2 to 3 feet of tippet tied to the end. No strike indicator, no added weight. The down-eye hook makes re-tying quick, which matters when you’re switching colors or sizes to find what’s working.
Cast upstream or across, and let the fly drift naturally with the current, occasionally lifting the rod tip slightly to give the fly a bit of extra movement. The wire body provides enough weight to break the surface and settle into the upper part of the water column without any split shot.
Choosing a Size
#12 gives you a larger profile, useful in faster water or when fish are chasing bigger food sources. #14 is a solid all-around size for most situations. #16 is the better choice in clear, low water or with fish that have gotten wary of bigger patterns.
Common Questions
Do I need to add split shot? No. The wire body provides enough weight on its own. Adding more weight works against the natural drift this style of fly is built for.
Can I fish these in lakes or ponds? Yes. A slow hand-twist retrieve gives the hackle some movement. Panfish and bass will take these around weed beds in a few feet of water.
How do I keep the hook sharp? A ceramic hook file works well for touch-ups after extended use. Store the flies somewhere dry to avoid rust over time.
What’s in each pack? Every pack, whether the 6-fly sampler or the 12-fly assortment, splits evenly across yellow, red, and green for the size you choose. The 6-pack gives you 2 of each color, the 12-pack gives you 4 of each.
Specs
| Size | Shank | Gape |
|---|---|---|
| #12 | 11mm | 4.5mm |
| #14 | 10mm | 4mm |
| #16 | 8.5mm | 3.5mm |
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Hook | High-carbon steel, down-eye, chemically sharpened, barbed |
| Body | Wrapped fine wire (gold, red, or green) |
| Hackle | Natural feather, reverse-tied (Sakasa style) |
| Thorax | Peacock herl |
| Sizes Available | #12, #14, #16 |
| Colors per Pack | Yellow, Red, Green (all three included) |
| Target Species | Rainbow/Brown/Cutthroat Trout, Grayling, Panfish |
| Best Water | Mountain streams, freestone rivers, spring creeks, ponds |




Solid flies for the price. The wire body sinks faster than dubbed body flies which I actually prefer for deeper runs. Colors are bright and the hackle is tied clean. Only thing I’d say is the red version seems to outfish the others by a mile — stock up on that one specifically. Will be reordering.